A PLACE WHERE EVERYONE LOOKS THROUGH ROSE-COLORED GLASSES

If you like live music (which, on a hunch, I am assuming you do), then New Orleans is an American Mecca for those pilgrims weary of searching for ultimate variety in concert-going experiences. NOLA is perhaps best known for its major role in spawning the rise of jazz music – a badge of honor worn proudly by the city to this day, from the dozens of jazz clubs that line the likes of Frenchmen Street in the Marigny to its world-famous annual Jazz and Heritage Festival, which is spread over two weekends every spring – but the Crescent City also caters to the needs and creative spirits that consume and contribute to the other 39205820395802398502 musical genres that imbue our airwaves in this day and age. Since I arrived in New Orleans before the revival of downtown and the renovation of the Canal St. theaters that were damaged in Hurricane Katrina, as a lover of independent music (in all its many forms) my tastes often brought me to one of two places in the French Quarter. The first was the House of Blues, which is a gorgeous space, quite efficient and eclectic in nature, and despite it being part of a national chain remains to be one of the better places to catch mid-level shows in the Quarter. If the HoB wasn’t calling my name that night for one reason or another, I often found myself standing at the door of one of downtown’s true treasures: the tucked away gem that is One-Eyed Jacks on Toulouse St. Part venue, part nightclub, part burlesque theatre, and all character--from its perfect sightlines to the efficient centralized horseshoe bar in the main room, this miniature concert hall is bursting with personality.

That and the color red. Pretty much everything inside is a deep, pounding shade of red…and/or black. But mostly red. It’s kind of like stepping into a checkerboard, or maybe a deck of—ohhhh.

Ha, I get it now.

Great venues feel like they’re alive even when they’re empty. I’ve been to places before anyone in the crowd shows up, and in some places, you can feel the energy buzzing around you--from the walls and the lights, to the clanging of bottles and the slapping of shoes against the floor as the workers prepare in anticipation.

Each employee that works at One-Eyed Jacks perfectly embodies the spirit of the city. It’s like lining up a bunch of tequila shots that you have to personally interact with on a nightly basis—they’re all a little salty at first, but they swiftly smooth out with a slightly sweet and smoky finish. The bouncers are large and friendly, even if they are unwittingly terrifying—kind of like Clifford the Big Red Dog. Sliding past them you brings you into the small front bar, where you can catch a glimpse of some of the merch for sale, just as the surrounding red begins to wrap around you, like some sort of hazily familiar hug, similar to being embraced by a relative you only see at holidays and is always partially inebriated (though, honestly, in the summer months, it feels more like being swallowed by a big malodorous mouth). At first sight, the place might not look like much, but once you reach the back, the space opens up, revealing the true heart of the space. The venue stretches straight back to the stage, draped in its signature red curtain, medaled by the club’s logo, featuring the Jack’s enigmatic stare. The floor slopes down two sets of stairs as it approaches the stage, forming two tiers broken by a hoof-shaped central bar before reaching its lowest point at the foot of the stage. There you will be greeted by quick-witted bartenders who so perfectly echo the joyous heartbeat of New Orleans. They sling extremely reasonably-priced cocktails and ice-cold Abita beer, lightly sassing you as you order that fourth double-vodka-Red Bull with a confusing yet comforting mix of warmth, wisdom, and side-eye. But you’ll never have to wait long for a drink, you’ll always be really close to your spot (and be able to see perfectly), and you’ll always get a wink or a smile or a lively “Thanks, baby!” before they’re onto their next patron.

"One-Eyed Jacks’ relaxed atmosphere mixed with its bold New Orleans flavor make any evening spent there an enjoyable one."

One thing I love about OEJ is that they never seem to have an “off” night. There’s always something to do, and their calendar is always chock-full-o’-goodies just ripe for the pickin’. More often than not, some smaller, lesser-known indie band (or artist or collective or DJ or producer or harpsichordist etc., etc.) tops the bill, with a handful of excited tagalongs and/or some local up-and-comers eagerly opening the show and warming up the room. I myself had the distinct pleasure of seeing a variety of acts, both old and new, during my tenure in Louisiana, including first tours for acts like Unknown Mortal Orchestra, Foxygen, and Father John Misty--with whom I had a secret drinking contest during his performance in 2012 (it was so secret, he didn’t know about it, and I’m pretty sure I lost), while making way for some older and/or possibly forgotten outfits, such as NYC-based indie pop duo Cibo Matto or the now-defunct indie outfit The Walkmen, who played their last show there as part of 2014’s NBA All-Star Weekend Party. Tickets for these shows typically cost between $10 and $20, though some do break through that barrier, gently bumping up against that $30 mark (gasp!). Very rarely, they can get much pricier, as some very unexpected guests have made their way onto the tiny stage from time to time, and catching intimate sets performed by living legends such as Lindsey Buckingham or Joan Baez require you to cough up slightly a little more money at the door (I think when Lindsey Buckingham was there, tickets were $65—4x the standard $15). Entry on some nights is as low as $5, as nights with live music are separated with other delights like burlesque and comedy nights, album release parties for local artists, or a healthy dose good ole’ fashioned clubbing—my favorite being their free weekly ‘80s dance party held every Thursday. The space is open nightly and always has something worthwhile to offer its clientele.

One-Eyed Jacks’ relaxed atmosphere mixed with its bold New Orleans flavor make any evening spent there an enjoyable one. Just by stepping through the door, you feel like you’re part of a long and colorful history, an important character in the tall tales the crimson walls would relate, if only they had the chance to speak.

Find them here: http://www.oneeyedjacks.net/